Stuff we came across on the Internet that may turn out to be useful:
Disable ABS in pre-BS6:
In the BS6 RE finally installed a switch to disable the rear ABS. People with older bikes can just pull 3 fuses to achieve the same:
Tyre size explained
Breaking it down takinging as example 120/90–R17
120 – It’s the width of the tyre (mm)
90 – is the aspect ratio or tyre profile
17 – is the diameter of the wheel rim in inches
R means it is a radial construction
What’s a tyre’s profile?
This relates to the depth of the sidewall (the wall at the side of the tyre). The profile is expressed as a percentage of the tyre’s width. Eg. Our 120/90R17 tyre has a profile or sidewall that is 90% of the 120mm (width). A low profile tyre is generally 50% or below, down to as little as 30% with ultra low profile tyres. Higher performance vehicles are usually fitted with tyres that have lower profiles. While low profile tyres give you greater control and better handling on corners, they can give a slightly harder ride. Also, going to a lower profile on the same size wheels will alter your speedometer reading.
While the Himalayan rear wheel officially takes 120/90 R17 people have used 130/80 R17 as well. The Michelin Anakee Adventure is only available in that size and has been used without problem.
Brake Pads Sintered CHEAP:
While we do not think this makes a big enough difference what we can say is that the expensive Brembo pads are no better than the dirt cheap Yamaha types. They are 3 Euro a pair here in India. The Yamaha part no. is 2GS-W0045-00
This guy goes into details about it:
Head bearings rusted and damaged:
If your head bearings look like this get quality replacements, e.g. from Japan, Germany or England:
In Germany: Kegelrollenlager (=tapered roller bearings) 30205 J2/Q SKF 25x52x16,25 – 11,10 Euro a piece from https://www.agrolager.de/
They are expensive but long lasting.
You can also replaced the cone set bearings with Timken TRB 30205.
More sources for aftermarket Himalayan fork tapered roller bearings:
SKF: 30205 https://www.bearing-king.co.uk/products.php?search=30205
ZKL: 30205/A http://www.zkl.cz/en/cat/srtrb/30205a
Use quality grease to pack them properly when exchanging. I use LIQUI MOLY 3530 LM 47 high endurance – with MoS – 2, 1 kg package.
When changing the bearing you will also want to change the top and bottom seals, order them from RE:
587882/c Dust Seal-Steering Assy
587369/a Dust Seal- Steering Assy top
Instructions how to change them:
Flawed stator in BS3 / carburated Himalayan:
If you happen to have a carburetor version remember the stator is flawed. This was fixed in the EFI version but unfortunately the EFI stator does NOT fit into a carb. bike.
It seems that the stator insulation burns when the bike is used for prolonged high speed rides, but that is just my going theory. It may be a different reason. Fact is they burn out on our 3 carb bikes with clockwork regularity some time between 6000 and 10.000km. This is what a burned stator looks like:
One thing you can do is install an inexpensive voltmeter on your bike, there are different ones available on amazon, e.g. with USB ports or 12V ports. The voltage during riding with lights should never go below 13V (if you have LED light not below 14V). If it does that is a sign of a failing stator. Make sure you get it replaced immediately as the battery is small and the bike will not run for long after it fails. The part no. for the BS3 stator is 574399/C. I suggest you buy an extra one as failing is almost a certainty but stock at the dealer is not.
If charging fails in a BS4/EFI then the cause could be a failed RR unit (and of course in a BS3 as well but this happens much more rarely)
RR Unit parts no. BS3: 587356B / BS4: 587356C
Check engine health by looking at the spark plugs:
Can you drive the Himalayan with trailer? Apparently you can:
NGK Iridium IX Spark Plug 4218 – Type: CR8EIX.
The “C” in CR8EIX NGK signifies 10 mm thread diameter, likewise ‘B’ in NGK range would be 14 mm and ‘D’ for 12 mm. Be cautious while purchasing online, there are rumors that fake NGK CR8EIX and CR9EIX have flooded these platforms and biggest telltale is that these are 14 mm or 12 mm ‘C’ series, among other indications, thus fake. So what you are looking for is 10 mm thread diameter and 19 mm reach.
Part No.: 570889/B – CARBURETOR UCD33
Some People increased the main jet from 125 to a 130, we have done it and seen improvement in the idle of our 477cc.
We have run the 477cc engines with 125 jets as well but idle was hard to control. Also: our 510cc has a 130 jet.
On a stock 411cc it seems useless to go to 130 main.
Bike too high? You can lower it by 2-4cm:
There are various solutions to this from various vendors but all use the same principle: the connection of the rear suspension to the frame is lengthened by a certain amount. We absolutely reject the various Chinese solutions available on ebay that are variable in length. This part is under a lot off strain and any compromise in material strength or engineering will break it under load. The German Metisse GmbH makes the most beautiful and lightweight extensions. We offer a solution made from the OEM part by extending it, ugly, heavier, but equally stable – and for half the price, check this page.
Throttle position sensor – stalling issue:
Newer EFI/ABS bikes: If you have issues with losing power, surging, or maybe even stalling you may want to check the voltage of the throttle position sensor. After adjustment in the SC the bike appears to be running normal. RE seemingly is considering a recall on this issue.
Reading Error Codes from the ECU